Restaurant: L'Enclume

Finding complex food largely from London is not easy, but L'Enclume's Simon Rogan has very high standards Cavendish Street, Cartmel, Cumbria (01 539 536 362). Lunch for two, including wine and service, £ 180 Service is slick and the wine list does not make you feel like you are being punished for an unnamed crime. But let's not pretend it's cheap, or even nodding terms with cheap. The cost and long. It's kind of expenditure which will make a special ...

Restaurant review: L'Enclume

Search for food complex long way from London is not easy, but L'Enclume's Simon Rogan has a very high standard Cavendish Street, Cartmel, Cumbria (01,539,536,362). Meals for two, including wine and service, £ 180 One of those who moan at me, though sweet, Simon Rogan, chef at L'Enclume in Cartmel. He recently opened an outpost in London called Roganic, giving those of us here the chance to experience the small, precise and sophisticated plates of food with which he made ...

Restaurant Review: Australasia

Manchester deserves a dinner Grear, but the brilliant and showy Australasia leaves the city – and Jay – emptiness 1 The Avenue, Spinningfields, Manchester (0161 831 0288). Meal for two with wine and service, £ 110 A few weeks ago, I wrote a piece explaining that, if asked in a restaurant I review how the meal I always say: "Fine." I try to say in how my seven-year-old son said, when asked about his day at school. "Fine," as the ...

10 of the best restaurants in Edinburgh

This is the sister restaurant in Edinburgh's Michelin-starred The Kitchin. Enjoy a drink in the bar or, better yet, wait, down to the chef table, Dominic Jack are invited kitchen with views – although see the preparation of fine food, the choice of a bowl makes it even more difficult. Maybe put your trust in the Surprise Tasting Menu (£ 60) from which the pistachio souffle lingers long in the memory. Inside the dining patches of purple puncture soothing neutral ...

Restaurant review: Brixton Village

Brixton Village is home to the vibrant restaurant scene in London – and best of all, it's Jay on doorstep Atlantic Road, London SW9. Open Mon-Wed 10.00 bis 06.00 clock, Thu-Sat 10.00 till 22.00, Sun 12.00 bis 05.00 clock It was while I was the burger, the juices dribbling ate on my wrists, the right scent at the age of dead animals in my nose that I realized I was an idiot. A few months ago I checked Kaosarn a ...

Restaurant review: Bistro du Vin

For the year Bistro du Vin has a place in the heart of Jay's. But the high prices and the gloomy cooking means it's all over 36 Dean Street, London W1 (020 7432 4800). Meal for two, including wine and service, £ 110 I remember eating at the very first Hotel and Bistro du Vin in Winchester in the mid 90s. It's not a night or my wife or I could forget. Devastated by infertility, we began a course of ...

Restaurant: Bistro du Vin

For years, Bistro du Vin in a place Jay has had heart. But does that mean high prices and grim cooking, that's all over 36 Dean Street, London W1 (020 7432 4800). Dinner for two, including wine and service, £ 110 I remember the first Hotel du Vin and Bistro in Winchester food, in the mid 90s. It is not a night either my wife or I could forget. Plagued by infertility, we had begun a course of IVF and ...

Restaurant review: British Larder

Local cuisine prepared with French expertise means that the British Larder is a treat in store for the greedy eaters Woodbridge, Suffolk (01394 460310). Meal for two, including service, £ 100 The British Larder is a seriously cool name for a restaurant. It bellows "Agenda" and "virtue." In a food culture where the words "local" and "seasonal" is too often used to cover up for a lack of imagination, technology, or good taste, it sounds like a serious statement of ...

Restaurant review: The British Larder

Local food cooked with French expertise means that the British Pantry is a pleasure reserved for the dining greedy Woodbridge, Suffolk (01,394,460,310). Lunch for two, including service, £ 100 The British Pantry is a seriously ballsy name for a restaurant. It bellows "agenda" and "virtue." In a food culture where the words "local" and "seasonal" is used too often to cover up the lack of taste imagination, technique, or that sounds like a serious statement of intent: look! You may ...

Restaurant Review: The British Larder

Local cuisine with French know-how means cooked, that the British Larder is a treat in store for the greedy eaters Woodbridge, Suffolk (01 394 460 310). Dinner for two, including service, £ 100 The British Larder is a seriously ballsy name for a restaurant. It bellows "Agenda" and "virtue." Cover up in a food culture where the words "local" and "seasonal" is used too often for a lack of imagination, technology and good taste, it sounds like a serious intent: ...