Gourmet Hotels: Part Two

As St. John Hotel opens for business, our reporters examine restaurants with rooms and foodie destinations, from the Isle of Wight to the Isle of Skye

• Part one: Gloucestershire to Glasgow, Cork Whitstable

Shirley Spears' Three Chimneys on Skye has the atmosphere that often surrounds food destinations. Huge based on those who are here to celebrate, a honeymoon couple will arrive shortly after we do. And there's no denying that the place is special, lies in a lovely old cottage, and accessed by roads twisting over the wild moors, which in Macleod's tables. The rooms in the "house of the" finely became modern, comfortable, all with views over Loch Dunvegan. Come dinnertime, it's a short walk to the restaurant next.

We had the tasting menu. From lobster (in miniature sharp Tatti scones) – too often exported from Scotland in the past, this is changing, thanks to the likes of Spears who championed eating locally long before it became fashionable – menu focused, happily, of fish and shellfish. A crab risotto was wonderfully juicy, with both brown and white meat, was a single scallop huge, its glowing coral roe inviting during an inspired crust of hazelnut.

A presentation of the wonderful Broadford cold and hot smoked fish needed more than the single quail egg to break it up, while some small whelks enclosed other dish was a patient on a springy texture that did not win us over. But these were minor details – the overwhelming was the fresh produce is treated imaginatively. Oysters were mouth-slappingly refreshing with cucumber jelly and trout roe sparkling like little pink opals, game connected to the wonderful effect of rhubarb, the classic hot marmalade pudding – in this incarnation souffled – was surprisingly light and delicious.

A superb KEDGEREE with peat-smoked salmon graced the breakfast table the next morning. My father, a pudding aficionado if ever there was one, was not impressed with the variety, preferably a pinhead oatmeal that fundamentalists use. Fortunately, he recovered with freshly baked scones and muffins.

• Twin / double from £ 295, seven-course tasting menu, £ 85pp. Book online

Ullinish Country Lodge, Straun, Skye

Over on the western edge of Skye is the dramatic Ullinish peninsula, where the handsome Ullinish Country Lodge is located between no fewer than three lakes, the source of fresh crab canapes before dinner. The hotel has been carefully restored by the lovely owners, Pam and Brian Howard, and are tastefully done out there, which boasts large solid dark Jacobean beds, but with a cheerier feel than the style sometimes suggests, thanks to the warm hospitality of the owners.

The kitchen sources locally – game from Orbost Estate, mussels from nearby Loch Eishort, John Dory all the way from – shock, horror – Mallaig. The hotel's young chef, Craig Halliday, manages to produce good, poaching a fillet of John Dory in olive oil to better effect than this description suggests, was juicy, crisp without being greasy, and accompanied by Pomme puree that was so filthily well I can only draw conclusion Robuchon's 50% butter technique had been used. I enjoyed lightly spiced donuts, popcorn ice cream and candy puff (think posh crunchier), although the cinnamon milk "shots" on the side was less convincing. Interesting bread – moist and light bread, beetroot and cumin spiced rolls – are turned out from the hotel kitchen, which is the beautiful shortbread as Pam greeted us by the fire on arrival.

After gorging on a meat-feast-breakfast with black pudding, thick cut bacon and local sausages, you might want to do as we did and take a hike. At low tide, there is a crack hour long walk past the causeway to the top of Oronsay in Loch Bracadale – it is not too taxing and the views of this beautiful melancholic Peninsula is well worth it.

• Rooms, dinner, B & B from £ 95 a person. Book online

Kinloch Loch Hotel, Sleat, Skye

At the foot of Kinloch Hill and on the banks of beautiful Loch Na Dal in Sleat, sitting Kinloch Lodge, the seat of Clan Macdonald, owned by the high head of Clan Donald (Lord Macdonald of Macdonald to you and me, even if his cooking writes Mrs. Claire will probably be of greater interest to foodies). In other words, there is still a place of power and influence, undermined by an overwhelming down to earth and friendly welcome. Most of the rooms overlook the lake or the mountains and all are scattered with antiques and prints. There are a lot of history in these walls, beautiful large lounges, spiral staircase, log fires and ancestors staring down from the many halls, diners eat under the watchful eyes of MacDonald's earlier in the dining room, lost a fact not in me that I enjoy their hospitality by committing Campbell blood runs through my veins.

Marcello Tully presides in the kitchen, a Brazilian Scotsman trained under Michel Roux. He served Kinloch Lodge Isle of Skye single Michelin star, and turning out some beautifully balanced dishes Mallaig sea bass with monkfish wrapped in pancetta and served with pink grapefruit easily singed with a blowtorch. Marcello succeeded where my father has failed for decades, and converted me to mush – Pinhead oatmeal soaked in water overnight (it can only help that the hotel's water is led from a natural spring that runs through peat), simmered in milk with nutmeg and cinnamon. It was creamy and sweet and won our porridge price for the trip. Lady Macdonald runs cooking classes and private demonstrations and there is a small shop that sells gadgets, cookbooks and homemade preserves.

• Dinner, bed and breakfast ranges from £ 99 to £ 250 a person. Book online

The Old Inn, near Talisker distillery perched right on the Loch Hartwot, a pub with a few tables in a small closet that do their best to hide the view. However, it is worth a pit stop on the whiskey trail. We followed a large pea and ham soup and salmon (hot smoked out of the back) with a delicious lemon POSSET, raspberries and shortbread, sticky toffee pud, and decent coffee, all for under £ 25. Stop in at Arriba, a funky little cafe in the central town of Portree: friendly staff, good unprocessed food and good coffee, all overlooking the harbor.

• For more information on places to eat and live in Scotland, check out our Visit Scotland

Hand & Flowers, Marlow, Buckinghamshire

Tom Kerridge has been a hero of the Great British Menu, which he celebrates in its own menu of slow cooked duck breast with savoy cabbage, duck fat chips and sauce. There were peas in place of cabbage in the original dish, but Mr Kerridge moving with the seasons to get the best of everything is available.

His technical knowledge is unmistakably French, but his taste is unmistakably English as a shining black and white walls pub where his food is served. He has the enviable ability to create dishes that combine a taste for the robust flavors in balance with the lightest of hands. This is food that meets the Epicurean and TRENCHERMAN or woman.

After that, if you're lucky, you can slope off to one of the four suites, which neatly are named after breeds of cattle – Angus, Dexter, Charolais and Limousin – where you can contemplate the pleasures of the plate in perfect luxury. And lunch at £ 12.50 for two courses and £ 16.50 for three, one of the finest gems in the country.

Michael Macdonald vanilla (31 West St.) has been highly rated since its inception in TS Eliot's former house in 2002. Burgers of Marlow (The Causeway) provided by the Thames Valley with Black Forest cakes, Florentines, breads, chocolates and other delicacies even longer, since 1942. There is a Tea Shop too, if you do not buy take-away. If you want to see how beer is made, nip up to Loddon Brewery in Dunsden, Oxfordshire, and the water mill at Mapleduram House is the oldest working water mill in the country.

The Hambrough, Ventnor, Isle of Wight

Anyone who has visited a farmer in southeast England have probably noticed that good things come from the Isle of Wight: oak-roasted tomatoes, smoked garlic, rare breed meat, to name three, and the island has embraced organic food and farming, working towards become an 'eco island' 2020th But until recently, the eating out scene less satisfactory. Now Ventnor boasts Hambrough, a restaurant with rooms (some with views of the beach) with one Michelin star and three AA rosettes.

The young chef Robert Thompson, uses local produce to create an inventive menu that stops just the right side of fussiness. Not everything works – foie gras samosa was a once in a lifetime experience, and not in a good way – and there may be a tad too much "truffles" this and "jus" that for some, but it was really exciting to see what's next (we had a 10-course tasting menu). Meat and fish, including oysters, scallops, brill and duck, was treated with respect and cooked simply, while the vegetables were a showcase for different cooking techniques: printed, printed, made to the ravioli. Desserts swung between an angelic Granny Smith sorbet and a devilish chocolate and banana "kromeski".

There is a decent deli in town, a big fish traders on the Esplanade and in the nearby village of Bonchurch, a 20-minute walk away, is Hambrough sister restaurant, The Pond Cafe. Do not be fooled by the name: it is a serious restaurant, not a casual CAFF. From homemade bread to the petit fours, everything was perfect. The sticking the bowl was twice baked gorgonzola soufflé (but perhaps they should use the Isle of Wight blue instead). We thought it just might have the edge on Hambrough, but then we have simple tastes.

After a scenic two-hour walk from Ventnor, past Appuldurcombe Houses and farms with woolly pigs and miniature Shetland ponies, you can reach Gods Hill, all the thatched cottages and tourist TAT. It is worth visiting for the Gods Hill Cider Company, Taverners pub and shop, and just outside the village, Gods Hill Organics farm shop.

• A two nights B & B break at Hambrough costs from £ 200pp, including return Wight Link (0871 376 1000) car ferry crossings. Wight Link also runs a foot passenger catamaran. Ferry and catamaran services depart from Portsmouth and Southampton

There is something about Edwardian hospitality industry at Northcote Manor. True, there are plenty of serious panels and accurate fires in the right grill and deep armchairs to sink into. But it has more to do with the sense of generosity and warmth. The spirit of the place is well-upholstered the furniture and furnishings.

The bedrooms may be decorated in the height of modern bed-and bath-time technology, but the beds is indescribably comfy pillows and plump, and there is gew-gaws galore decorate most surfaces. It is the opposite of Pawson-esque minimalism. Nigel Howarth, the legend of the Ribble Valley, King of Lancashire hotpot, rules the kitchen, even though spritely Lisa Allen runs a team, and they make a formidable duo.

The food is never less than thoughtful, intelligent and long on flavor. At best it is so amazing that everyone in the country. It is rooted in local ingredients and classic techniques, but always evolving, taking what it needs from the fads of modern culinary trends, but always bend them to Northcote's distinctive style in such dishes as filings radholme wild duckling with smoked foie gras snow, pomegranate, black pudding crumble and watercress, or hot loin of Herdwick sheep meat, capers, artichoke puree, honey and mint dressing.

• Prices from £ 215.50 for a double room, with a range of gourmet breaks, too. Check website for more information

There are a lot of the experienced gastronaut in the area, much of it listed on the Ribble Valley Food Trail website. There are four excellent pubs run by the Northcote team that goes under the name Ribble Valley Inns. Individually, they are the three fishes, (No Walley), The Highwayman Inn (Burrow, Kirkby Lonsdale), clogs and BOWLER (Pleasington, Blackburn) and the Bull at Broughton (No Skipton, North Yorkshire).

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