Hotel review: Charles Bathurst Inn, Arkengarthdale, North Yorkshire

Deep in the Yorkshire Dales offers a 18th-Century Inn local ales, home cooked food – and QUOITS

The glory of the Yorkshire Dales. Hardy watch out as we pass. Up, up, route the wires as a gray band across Reeth Moor, then down, over a creek (yes, through it, actually) in the Ark Garth Dale.

It is in this tributary valley of Swaledale, which we find the whitewashed Charles Bathurst Inn, a free house with 19 bedrooms. Dr John Bathurst was Oliver Cromwell's physician, but it is by a descendant, Charles, a key figure in the local lead mines, as the 18th-century inn is named.

A few regulars are back up bar. "Your table number 24," said barmaid, takes us by surprise when we check in. "It is through it," she says, in explanation, indicating a dining room at the far end of the bar, so assures us that she can remind us later if we forget. Well, maybe we are just after our trip.

Our first floor, two on the back. "Amazing location," says Clare, lowering his backpack on a chair and looking out from the bow window. Wildflower meadows merge into a patchwork of fields, carrying a brooding slopes of a dark crown of deciduous trees is interrupted by a Gothic mansion (the Duke of Norfolk shooting lodge, we discover later). But what are the corrugated iron structures in the pub garden? We soon find out. The sound of voices below, send us back to the window. The iron structures cover for a QUOITS pitch. In an environment of endless greenery, a scene that goes back centuries, the home team starts to play.

"What decade are peach-colored walls?" says my friend, hanging back on the bed. It's a no-frills bedroom, but when you do not come here to admire the wallpaper. We seem to have everything – decent towels, mattresses feels OK and shower room, but small, has enough shelf space (you'd be surprised how rare it is), free Wi-Fi (good connection). Although kettle lead reaches the plug, even if we ask for a different kettle – despite a declaration of spring water, we are not fond of a dark brown deposit which will be off on my finger.

Over a Black Sheep Rigg Welter beer, take part we accomplished menu in the bar. Table 29 (someone's in 24) are vintage photographs of the inn, and through a table of four, which belonged agitation about whether Trans-Siberian Express has a shower on board, we stifling giggles.

My veggie appetizer original – Stuffed onions, grilled asparagus and a mushroom and thyme samosa. Mmm, they will sell them for walkers' picnic. "Not sure it needs to lobster oil," said Clare of her "weird" crab risotto. "Walkers" comfort food, "she says in a beef and red wine stew she finds "a little bit dry." My confit leg and Ballotine of guinea fowl, Madeira sauce and a thick smear of sweet potatoes and cardamom puree, is undoubtedly the star of the show. Everything comes with a smile and an explanation when we need one – as we do when Mrs. Bell Blue, Ryedale and monks Folly arrive with biscuits and fruit.

I wake up in the crisp polycotton, and turn on the kettle. Showers are OK. Down to eat toasted homemade bread, homemade yogurt, fresh fruit and fruit coulis. It is de rigueur for breakfast this year, do not you know? "Melt in your mouth," says Clare, taste my smoked salmon before polishing off his full English. "What was the number of the breakfast table?" I wonder when we depart. "Dunno," said Clare, "But it was an eight out of 10 breakfast."

What to do in the area: the local population

Visit the beautiful market town of Barnard Castle – 12 miles northeast of the Ark by Garth Dale Stang Forest – and stop at Blagraves restaurant (30-32 Bank, 01833 637 668, blagraves.com). It is housed in one of the city's oldest buildings, built in the 15th century – Oliver Cromwell made the owners cover up a Royal Crest when he stopped in 1648. Now it's 500-year history will be presented for you to admire while you enjoy the gnocchi with local Cotherstone cheese and a pot of Teesdale lamb (set menu £ 24.95 for three courses, available Tuesday to Friday).

Many who live on the Charles Bathurst to visit his sister inn, the 17th-century Punch Bowl (Low Row, Richmond, 01748 886 233, pbinn.co.uk). If you are feeling energetic there is a brisk tre mil hiking, climbing Boulder Shaw Hill, then descending to a ford, which some may remember from the opening credits of the television series All Creatures Great and Small. Reward yourself with a pint of locally brewed Black Sheep ale and a plate of traditional Yorkshire Parkin. The Inn has a modern, cozy feel with great views of Whitaside (north side of the Swale).
Charles Cody, Charles Bathurst Inn

The spectacular 19th-century Bowes Museum (contact details above the entrance: adults £ 9, children free) is in Barnard Castle. Along with collections of archeology, ceramics and textiles, there are regularly changing exhibitions. Currently the museum is showing a collection of Vivienne Westwood's flamboyant shoes (pictured below left, until July 10) and flower paintings by Henri Fantin-Latour and the Impressionists (until 9 October). CC

Pastor Caroline Hewlett, vicar of Swaledale with Ark Garth Dale

Michael Briggs, district ranger, Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority

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Submited at Wednesday, July 6th, 2011 at 7:00 am on Hotel by alliana
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