Sacred Heart of Morocco, Moulay Idriss put on tourist map

Once a forbidden zone, the holiest city in Morocco is beginning to attract tourists with new and friendly hostel industry best restaurant in Fez

Until 2005, non-Muslims were not allowed to spend the night in Moulay Idriss. Guides warned tourists who dared to visit the city to be out by 3pm. This is what Edith Wharton had to do in 1919 when he visited the city, known as the holiest place in the country to investigate its classic travel memoir in Morocco. Although there was no place to stay, she said it was the first foreigner moussem witnessing frenetic city – the music-and dance celebration of summer bathed considered by many Moroccans as an alternative to the Muslim pilgrimage to the Mecca.

Well, there are places to stay now, and a strange new restaurant by Mike Richardson, a former maitre d 'of the Wolseley and ivy which recently became the first foreigner to buy property here. The red-headed pioneer moved to Fez, an hour east, five years ago to establish Clock Coffee (concept: crazy Moroccan souk meets Venice Beach Service, style, with burgers camel) and now intends to do the same in Moulay Idriss.

"Foreigners are welcome now," he says, adding that the reputation of Moulay Idriss as an unwelcoming place, it was not until the religious sensibilities alone.

"From what I understand," he says, "myths are produced because the place is so special. The Moroccans wanted to keep it secret."

His new restaurant, Dar Akrab (House of the Scorpion), stands on one of the two hills in this ancient city where Moulay Idriss El Akhbar, grandson of the prophet Muhammad and the man who brought Islam to Morocco 1,200 years ago, is buried . Does not have the charm of a star yet exciting place beaten by promises of tourism.

Tour buses from Fez would come no closer to Volubilis, a Roman city mysteriously abandoned 20 minutes walk from the city. There are no regular public transport, the cheapest way to get there is a shared "grand" taxi from Fez and Meknes.

Giving rise to Akrab is steep but worth it for the incredible mountain views from the terrace minimalist white as you eat your scrambled eggs with truffles desert of Morocco or barbecue, the house specialty. In a Moroccan barbecue meat, usually lamb mechoui cooking style (a Berber compared with the method Arabic) – outdoors over the coals and basted with an herbaceous, spicy marinade made of cumin, paprika and cilantro.

For more details, so you can ask the other customers because, unlike many of the new luxury places in Marrakech, Dar Akrab can meet young locals, men and women.

"The environment will be dictated by the common people," says Mike, and hello to a couple of women enjoying afternoon tea in a nearby terrace. He says he initially bought the place as a refuge from her life as a resident of Fez entertained. Café Clock in the center of the souk, is so successful that every time you step outside, is gripped by a shepherd chameleons pet sales or rose water made at home that want to spend the day time.

Even for the non-famous, Fez can feel claustrophobic after a couple of days, and the huge skies and spectacular views of Moulay Idriss is a tonic. Other attractions include ancient Roman baths, a 10-minute walk from the peaceful hills, with two medium-sized bathrooms built in the foothills of Mount Zerhoune. You can swim here, the water smells of cumin and hot stones. (In the summer, Richardson said, is "child soup.") But even if you do not take a bath, it's worth the hike in stunning views. Looking down on the vast plains of Volubilis gives a real sense of being in Africa – as well as a glimpse of what might have felt Roman Africa.

Thanks to Dar Akrab, Moulay Idriss is beginning to awaken. local friend of Mike, Fayssal, directs a new guest house of five rooms, Dar Zerhoune. It is a modest wooden structure, boutique hotel tile floor doors with the classic form of Keyhole, a lot of romantic balconies and a rare baraka Muhammad size in the central courtyard which indicates that part of the original home of Mecca.

With the conservatory on the roof has dampened (again) amazing mountain views. Breakfasts come with local honey, couscous and bread dipped in olive oil in a forest near the road.

Fayssal father, Mustafa, is a great host, too. Once a week, offering guests the option of Tangier, the famous Moroccan stew cooked by men. Male is a dish that is a lot of meat and not much work. It takes a large ceramic urn for the butcher, get it filled with spiced meat, then take you to the hammam. The fire left in the hammam, go and have a good steam, and when ready, you take home and announce, "Hey honey, I made dinner!"

Closing the big show comes a time when Mustapha empty the urn in front of me. The richness of the sauce and meat tenderness of a moment I was shocked into silence as Fayssal inscrutable smile and his jovial father to me.

Food is an important part of Mike's new company. And runs cooking workshops of Fez, and do the same in Dar Akrab. Your friend, Tara Stevens cooking writer, has just published Clock Book: Recipes from a Modern Kitchen Morocco (33books, £ 15), inspired by Mike menus. In Moulay Idriss, who will be manning the grill in Morocco and teaching guests how to make everything from duck in pomegranate molasses spice to crystallize rose petals.

• Contact Dar Akrab, which opens its doors in late May, +212 535 637855, cafeclock.com. Double room with bath costs € Zerhoune Dar 45 (212,535,544,371, buttonsinn.com). Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies to Fes from Stansted from £ 42 return

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Sacred heart of Morocco: putting Moulay Idriss on the tourist map ...
Morocco + Restaurants | Travel | The Guardian
Travel | The Guardian
Sacred heart of Morocco: putting Moulay Idriss on the tourist map ...

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Submited at Sunday, May 1st, 2011 at 7:00 am on Hotel by sofia
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