The jewel in the crown: a castle fit for a Nizam

The Falaknuma Taj, one of the most luxurious apartment buildings in India, opens its doors half a century after it was closed, giving guests the chance to experience the hospitality of rich life in the Raj

The extravagance of the Nizams of Hyderabad needs no introduction. Up to lose power at independence in India, their princely state lasted for two centuries, presiding over a huge chunk of the Deccan. A synonym for profligacy and spending on a truly sumptuous, the dynasty Nizams' competed with the big countries in terms of wealth.

Of the seven Nizams who ruled Hyderabad 1720-1948, the richest was the last, Mir Osman Ali Khan, who was considered the richest man in the world – his picture graced the cover of Time magazine. As recently as 2008 was the highest rated fifth in the all-time Forbes richest (Bill Gates ranks 20th).

He had his own brand, printing its own currency, the rupee Hyderabadi, and a large private treasure. Its coffers were said to contain 100 million pounds in gold bullion and silver, and a further £ 400m of jewelry. Among them was Jacob fabulously rare diamond, worth about £ 60m today, and used as a paperweight by the Nizam. There were the pearls, too – enough to pave Piccadilly – hundreds of horses, thousands of uniforms, regalia and tons of Rolls-Royce by the dozen.

But it was the great love Nizams' with buildings that cost more than anything else to keep. They owned more than a handful of Hyderabad alone, with many thousands of slaves, servants, bodyguards, eunuchs and concubines.

The most favorite of all was the Falaknuma. Situated on a hill with breathtaking views over Hyderabad in the Falaknuma Palace was built in the shape of a scorpion with a double tail biting. Known as "mirror of the sky", was built in classical style with Italian marble, with hints of art nouveau. No expense was spared to create it – a masterpiece on the plains of central Europe.

The Nizam's prime minister, Viqar ul Omra, conceived the building as a luxurious residence for himself. The first stone was laid in 1884, but the building was not completed for almost another decade. At that time the prime minister was forced to borrow funds to finish it – money that had no chance of ever earning.

The story goes that in order to save face, his wife suggested a cunning plan. Invite her master Mehboob Ali Pasha, the sixth Nizam, residence, the prime minister expected to be praised for creating a glorious pleasure dome. And when the praise has been lavished, Viqar ul Omra offered the building to the Nizam as a gift. Accept with gratitude, the king repaid the full cost – a pittance for a man of colossal wealth.

The building soon became a favorite of royal visitors including King George, Queen Mary, Edward VIII and Tsar Nicholas II. It represented a fragment of Europe into a prince whose wealth exceeds most of their wildest dreams. But with the withdrawal of the private stock and the subsumption of an independent Hyderabad in India, the billionaire lifestyle came to an abrupt end.

The buildings were closed, their doors shut with wax seals by court order. And for decades they have slept, like something from a child's fable. The Falaknuma was no exception. For 30 years or more almost no one was allowed entry and the place is ruined.

Yet, just before you reach the point of no return, Princess Esra, the wife of former Turkish origin of the current Nizam (who still has the title but nothing else), stepped in Realizing the terrible loss to occur, negotiated an agreement that would save not only the Falaknuma, but other properties Nizam.

For a lease extension for 30 years, the Falaknuma was signed at the Taj Group. As part of the luxury hotel chain agreed to pay the bill-jaw dropping for restructuring. Every detail has been edited by Princess Esra itself in a transformation that has had more than a decade to complete. Once again, sparing no expense, the princess has brought experts from around the world, each in charge of a solemn duty to return the pupil of the eye of the Nizams' to its original state.

And the result is a measure of the royal palace for a Nizam again.

As the standard bearer leading the way up the slope a large scale, the first thing you notice is the silence. There's nothing for miles around, and in solitude, like India itself is a symbol of wealth.

Inside is a vestibule, its walls and ceilings decorated with frescoes, Greek vases and alabaster nymphs. There is no reception, no concierge, none of the trappings of a hotel. Rather, there is a sense that you are a guest house in the Nizam's.

Passing through the main body of the building and enter a world that disappeared half a century ago. In the distance there is the gentle chimes of a clock Louis XIV and, closer to a row of factotum livery stand to attention, awaiting instructions.

Once accepted in whispers, and appropriately the show, with refreshments, I was brought to my suite Zenana wing, where my luggage was already checked out by a waiter. Lavish yet understated, the 60 rooms and suites exude a sense of luxury Falaknuma made from real wealth.

Shortly after the historic building, Prabhakar Mahindrakar, begins a visit to the castle. An imposing figure of a man, dressed in a flowing black Sherwani, walking softly on the floor in rosewood.

We walk into the ballroom, with its Venetian chandeliers, gilded ceilings, teak and walnut furniture, and miles and miles of silk.

"Before Princess Esra saved the building," says Prabhakar, "I thought it would just crumble to dust. You should have seen. In this room very rotted curtains, upholstery eaten by termites and ants. There were cobwebs everywhere, rats the size of cats, and unimaginable amounts of dust. "

He leads the way out on the landing, lit by lamps with Carrara marble and decorated with portraits of Nizams down looming giant in rococo frames. Next door is the Jade Room. Haute Chinoiserie style, is decorated with art objects and even more magnificent chandeliers and a parquet floor in intricate geometric patterns.

Prabhakar steps gently until Hukka Lounge, with its multi-stem water pipe, chaise longue and embossed leather walls. It slipped through a small door on the left, you will come out in the cavernous dining room. Running down the center is one of the dining world's longest. Thirty-three feet long, made of teak and rosewood, can accommodate 101 guests and was once laid with gold, the Nizam's cutlery and plates.

He may have owned the building, but it is Omra Viqar ul monogram which is all over it. Nearly everything from dining chairs for the windows port his initials "VO".

The library ceiling is monogrammed. Inspired by that at Windsor Castle, the room has 6,000 rare volumes, including a large number of leather-bound volumes from the Nizam's Dominions Looks title. Leafing through them, you get a sense of unlimited power and wealth held by the Nizams.

The historic building, Prabhakar, seems suddenly overcome with melancholy. Kissing your fingers, touch them gently to the book.

"We are all equal now," he says, "but I must admit that the desire of the past are still here."

More Source:

Jewel in the crown: a palace fit for a Nizam | Travel | The Observer
India + Hotels | Travel | The Guardian
Osman Ali Khan, Asaf Jah VII - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hyderabad Hotels thread - Page 12 - SkyscraperCity

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Submited at Thursday, February 24th, 2011 at 7:00 am on Hotel by john
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