A Lap Around the Old City of Jerusalem

2 July 2010 2325 (GMT +3) Jerusalem, Israel

This morning I decided to go for a walk around the Old City. Not a meandering stroll through the streets of the Old City, but for a walk around the exterior, following the outside of the wall. I wasn’t all that interested in getting lost inside today, as I’ve been lost in there a few times already. Instead, I’m working on strategic ins and outs through the various gates, learning some easy routes to the various sites. You begin running into problems when you find that there is no systematic order to labeling the streets. Some have signs, and some don’t. Some signs are located at every intersection, and some are not. Couple that with all the side streets and alleys that do not appear on your map, and one could be lost in this city for days. In a pinch, you could always ask someone for directions, and they will be very friendly and very helpful if, of course, the price is right.

I started outside the Damascus Gate, on the north end of the city, and worked my way clockwise. I started mid morning, because things begin to shut

down around here at about three or so, in preparation for Shabbat.

As I came around to the east side of the city, I stopped over at the Mount of Olives to check out the Garden of Gethsemane, which was closed the last time I was over there. The garden itself is enclosed as part of the Church of All Nations. This churchwas built using donations from twelve different nations in the early 20th Century, and is the traditional site of the garden where Jesus prayed on the night before his crucifixion. The actual site of the betrayal is held to be across the street from the garden. The chapel itself houses a stone which is stated to be the exact spot where Christ prayed.

If you go immediately across the street to the north, you’ll find both the Cave of Gethsemane and the Tomb of the Virgin. You’ll descend some stairs down into a courtyard. In front you will see the entrance to the tomb, and if you turn immediately right, there will be the entrance to the cave. As mentioned before, the cave is the traditional spot where it is believed that Christ was betrayed. That

is, where Judas led the Pharisees and their followers to arrest Jesus. Gethsemane itself means ‘oil press,’ and it was likely used to press and store olive oil. There is some indication in Luke that Jesus and his disciples may have visited this place often when they visited Jerusalem. After leaving the house of the last supper, Luke states that “he came out, and went, as his custom was, unto the mount of Olives” (Luke 22:39). There is in the small chapel built in the cave now under the administration of the Franciscans now, I believe. Fragments of mosaics found on the site show that it was a place of worship going back to the 4th Century.

The Tomb of the Virgin, on the same site, is where tradition holds that the disciples entombed Mary, the mom of Jesus. The tomb is cut into stone, and stairs lead down into the crypt. To the right you’ll see an enclosure built around a stone slab that is believed to be Mary’s actual resting place. The entry into this enclosure is very small, and you nearly have to kneel to get in. On the other side there is an altar with

many adornments. Lining the walls are depictions of significant events in Jesus’ life, from birth to death. There is one showing the three Magi worshiping the baby, and another depicting the holy family with a pyramid in the background. Remember the story of the family fleeing into Egypt?

It is also worth mentioning here the Jewish cemeteries that are prevalent in this area. The greater valley that runs to the east of the Old City – separating it from Mount Scopus and the Mount of Olives – is called the Kidron Valley. The area near the southeast corner of the old city is known as the Valley of Jehoshaphat. Many Jews believe that on Judgment Day, the dead will be resurrected and both the living and the dead will all be brought to this valley to be judged. Thus, many Jews select to be buried in this area.

Continuing around to the south side of the city you run into the Dung Gate. Despite its rather unfortunate name, it is the entrance to the Western Wall. This is one of – if not the – holiest site in Judaism. The wall is what remains of the Second Temple

which was expanded by Herod the Great. The Temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD during their effort to quell the latest Jewish revolt. Today Jews come here to worship and to pray. Non-Jews may approach the wall, but they must be dressed appropriately and cover their heads. As you approach he wall, you will see where people have written prayers on scraps of paper and inserted them into the cracks between the stones. Worry not, this is a normal practice. There is currently archaeological work going on in a tunnel along the base of the Western Wall in an attempt to study the foundations of the wall. The tunnel is open, but by appointment only.

After checking out the Wall, I thought about stepping over to the actual Temple Mount and the Dome of the Rock. Unfortunately, it was now a tiny after noon on a Friday, and the area was open only to Muslims going to prayer. Good timing. You would think I would know about Friday prayers by this time. No worries, though. It gives me something to do later.

I continued along the southern end of the wall, past the Zion Gate

and to the southeast corner of the city. South of the Zion Gate are several sited of interest which include the Hall of the Last Supper, the City of David, and the tomb of Oskar Schindler. (Yes, that Schindler.) Also located under the Hall of the Last Supper is King David’s Tomb, even though the authenticity of that is under some dispute.

Then again, the authenticity of most of these places is under some dispute. Historically speaking, it is very difficult to determine the exact location of any of these events. In the end it really comes down to a ideal guess based on the sources we have available to us. Many of these sites – particularly the Christian sites – were not identified until the mid 4th Century, and some not until much later. Tradition has been a strong force in determining the authenticity of these sites.

But that brings up an interesting point. As historians we are limited by the sources that are available to us, and the farther back you go in history, the less available sources become. Oral traditions are forgotten, libraries and buildings are destroyed, and documents decay. So, while many of these important

historical sites were identified by the Emperor Constantine’s mom three hundred years after the events occurred, we have no way of knowing what sources she had available to her. It is entirely possible that sources that she had no longer exist today. In the end it really comes down to our ideal guess based on the evidence we have, and while the sites this day may not be exactly where everything went down, they can’t be discounted as a possibility.

To complete the circuit, I headed north along the western wall of the Old City, past the Jaffa Gate, and towards the northern end of the city. When you reach the New Gate, turn right and follow the road back to the Damascus Gate. This part of the walk goes quicker, as there is somewhat less to see on this end of the city. Modern West Jerusalem is a city just like any other, and in this area you’ll see a normal mix of roads and shops and restaurants and other buildings. The real scenery is on the east side.

All in all the whole trip took over three hours, but it was very clear and pleasant with a

high close to 90 F (30 C, for the rest of you). Much cooler than Cairo.

And maybe someday I’ll remember to put on sun screen before I go out in the morning.

-MG

More Source:

Cycling around Jerusalem's Old City with Contador | ISRAELITY
Field Post | Jeffrey Donenfeld
Cyclist Alberto Kontador rides Jerusalem | ISRAEL21c
The Resonance of Jerusalem - OU.ORG

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Submited at Saturday, July 3rd, 2010 at 6:00 pm on Middle East by jessica
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