Restaurant review: Brixton Village

Brixton Village is home to the vibrant restaurant scene in London – and best of all, it's Jay on doorstep

Atlantic Road, London SW9. Open Mon-Wed 10.00 bis 06.00 clock, Thu-Sat 10.00 till 22.00, Sun 12.00 bis 05.00 clock

It was while I was the burger, the juices dribbling ate on my wrists, the right scent at the age of dead animals in my nose that I realized I was an idiot. A few months ago I checked Kaosarn a stonking Thai restaurant in an old market hall a short walk from my flat in Brixton, south London. I hesitated before writing this review, because they are lazy, cover anywhere near as much at home seemed. I am often accused of metropolitan bias, and although I'm pretty well done on the out-of-London operations, I could write anywhere, that practically was in the rear end of your code would be to simply throw lighter fluid seen on the , smoldering embers of a line.

But I more and more time spent in Brixton town, because in this review and increasingly convinced that it is the most exciting, radical venture is on the British restaurant scene today. I spend hours a week to wade through dark glossy press releases on the latest openings, each of which has no exchange of one million or more to the left. These are places with lighting and color concepts of waves and boards full of investment bankers, which is really just rhyming slang. They are built and designed by the front door in the kitchen, instead of.

Brixton Village, formerly Granville Arcade, is completely different. It is more than a dozen restaurants, most of which were opened for the price of a trip to Ikea. They have no concepts. They have open kitchens and menus, and nice young people, you eat nice things. A bunch of them who are not licensed, you feed under a tenner. Does not cost much more than that a head. The fact that all this is outside my front door a happy coincidence. To which I can only say hoorah for me.

That's exactly what I went through as the fabulous meaty juice kindly thought of the wonderful Honest Burgers (Unit 12). It speaks volumes for Brixton town, it would be impossible for me, about anything to write it, but few venture to call and demand Honest Burgers, part of a new revolution in quality burger in London, is one of them. The offer here is a serious contender for the title of the best cheap burgers in London.

It was founded by two chefs who met at the Brighton restaurant fish Riddle and Finns. Inside it is bare wood tables and bare bulbs. What counts are the pies, from 35-day-aged beef in the seasoning from the Ginger Pig, only the top and bottom made and served on a slightly sweet, glazed brioche-like bun. The basic burger with red onion relish is £ 6.50. The Honest burger with crispy bacon, mature cheddar and crunchy cucumbers, tops at £ 8. (Not listed on the menu, but for those in the know, the Federation burgers, from the Kiwis, the Federation Coffee Run dreamed on the next block in the market: the same as an honest burger, but with two patties, for your £ 12, are aneurysms optional.) triple cooked chips, with skin, dusted with salt and rosemary, and the edible equivalent of crystal meth. You can also use a wheat-and gluten-free bun from the WAG Free (Unit 26), a bakery directly opposite that lead to a windfall for celiac disease since its opening.

If eating the entire menu at Mama Lan you have not filled, go around the corner Elephant (Unit 55), a tiny Pakistani street-food cafe, in the lively, bright turmeric chicken curry on £ 6 a plate, with soft , bread and butter. Their Potatoes, onions, spinach and chili pakoras – deep fried fritters served with a raita of stroke – are a little tight, but its sharp, bright samosas make up for it. (Although the best samosas I've ever eaten were at Maumoniat International Food Store on Brudenell Grove, Leeds. In the 1980's. Ah, these greasy brown paper bag of hot, spicy sweetness.) It is also looking for interesting thalis, both meat and vegetarian.

Around the corner from there is the Brixton Village Grill (Unit 44), one painted dark material statements Portuguese piri-piri house serves salt-grilled sardines, chicken wings and spicy hunks of flame grilled breast and leg at £ 8.50. There is a large Portuguese community in this part of south London, and this is a very solid, in the see what they do with meat, fire, salt and chili. Salads are fresh, crispy chips and good service. Once when we were not ready for a plate, they wrapped the whole thing up in foil and asked us to bring the plate back later.

What else? Breads Etc (Unit 88) is the kind of great brownies and hot chocolate, small children and powerlessness, even better, make the mouth for a while. Etta of Seafood (Unit 46) offers huge plates of the Caribbean Sea and has built a loyal following. The Caribbean Grill takeaway Take Two (front right) is one of the original companies market and one of the few places in Brixton jerk chicken to cook over coals in a kettle-drum, instead of in the oven. Her sticky chicken wings, if available, should not be missed – a 10-napkin job at least.

Finally, for dessert, have finished-off with Laboratoria Artigianale del Buon Gelato or G LAB (Unit 6), where Giovanni Giovinazzo ice makes an unusual lightness, reminiscent of the candy I have so far found only in the palaces of Florence gelato. Apparently he has started his fabulous salt-caramel ice cream, because big hair, asked a few bearded food critic who lives near him, and now it is his biggest seller.

Be aware that nearly all these restaurants are cash only, and few take reservations, so you stand in line. Then again, there are also plenty of food and fabric stores, where you can browse. Finally, of course, start whining – it always does with London Food Ventures. Some will complain that the soul left the market, others that it has become closed from the locals. There may be rows between landlord and tenant. But now it is exciting and brings many people to Brixton, which otherwise might not think to come here. This must be a good thing.

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Submited at Sunday, October 9th, 2011 at 9:00 am on Restaurant by hilman
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