Restaurant review: The Mark Addy

Tripe, twigs, young sheep … Mark Addy in the menu on exceptional Manchester is filled with gorgeous meaty treat

Stanley Street, Salford, Manchester (0161 832 4080). Eating for two, including wine and service, £ 75

It is all about Robert Owen Brown, a touch of Dickens character, one of those robust, reliable ones show up a few chapters in, when everything is looking bleak for the hero, and depends on the page as a place of safety. He has ginger hair, wearing buttoned jackets, calls Sir men and women, women in a way that is at ease, and has a robust response to all that he judges to be total bollocks. Whenever I write about his food I am compelled to mention his refusal to words Petit Pois on the menu. "They are little pea," he told me once. "We are not in France." Indeed not. We are in a Manchester canal.

I have directed people to the pub, where he now cooks for a while now, but for writing about it have thought, because of what are known as Owen Brown's "endurance" issues. He has the habit of setting up somewhere, getting good reviews, then had to disappear. It happened at the Angel, an old drunkard, that sweet smell of wet dog take. But with good people behind him, he now was dug at the Mark Addy pub for a year or two.

It is a wonderful mix of bare brick arches and 70 files – smoked glass, modern window frames – which both wonderful if someone gets round, it will destroy. The current team can not by the conditions of their lease, nothing about these issues interiors. But with Owen Brown in the kitchen, they have the kind of gutsy gastro pub Manchester deserves created.

To say that the cook is not a fan of Fergus Henderson of St John justice to their friendship. The two are known for disappearing from beer to drink and swallow oysters in the early morning hours, and the menu reflects that. In a way this kind of food works better here. St John in London is a great restaurant, but it's also a confident statement. It is the dinner for the design crowd. On the Mark Addy is dinner only. Henderson's roasted marrow bones with parsley salad is as often on the menu. Much of the rest is not so much as a tribute Owen Brown to pay his respects to the under-celebrated inner and outer bits of the animal. In addition to the standard laminated menu is there a change list of specials that evening has two options, with tripe: both in the local style, pickled and stewed long in Madeira on toast. It is dark and sticky and slippery.

A bunch of his starters on toast come of it, lending to this first course the feeling of an old English High Tea. It is a slice of creamy, day-old cheese, toasted with an acidic edge, on one, crumpet butter. It looks like too much cheese, crumpet too little, but everything will disappear quickly enough. Another panel on toast with butter bumps, the edges of the salty, crispy oily fish beautiful. Delivery is fast too. Appetizers are rarely more than £ 6 and no more power than doubled.

We order steamed long, chicken-filled pig's bladder Traber and it comes with background music tapes perfect mash with garlic. A crown of dove is a little too soft, but tastes a bird that a proper living out, and is accompanied by a bullet impeccable blood sausage. The bird in the hills outside the town was shot and how to celebrate it reached its end, is a salad in a shotgun canisters presented as if it were a vase. This is what happened for whimsy in Owen Brown's kitchen. The menu offers many other good things, like braised slowly sticks, roasted young sheep and smoked haddock with poached egg duck. The wine list is short and wonderfully cheap, we can order a fabulous Cahors, which I have seen in London for North of 30 € – this costs £ 22nd

What they do not have is much in the way of desserts. Oh, they are there, but Owen Brown is not that interested in them. A syrup cake is OK, but rough and ready. A baked apple stuffed with raisins is undercooked. But it has very good ice Mrs Dowson. And now, when Owen Brown is finally to remain, he can afford rent, get a good pastry. Then, the Mark Addy would be complete.

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Submited at Sunday, April 24th, 2011 at 9:00 am on Restaurant by admin
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